Dragon Fruit Soap Recipe

This recipe will yield just over 3 lbs of soap. For the sake of simplicity we chose an easy 3 oil soap recipe. You can use any cold processed soap recipe you wish. Keep in mind, some oils can change the color of a cold processed soap bar. If you really want your dragon fruit soap to pop, consider using melt a pour soap instead.

A quick fragrance note: Dragon Fruit fragrance itself is OK. It smells good enough on its own but it is very mild. If you're looking for a good fragrance to use, try Nature's Garden "Papaya Dragon Fruit" fragrance oil. They blend in a nice mix of citrus and other fruits to really brind out the dragon fruit.

Note: This guide assumes you have some basic knowledge of cold processed soap making.

The key to making a dragon fruit style soap is layers! We will need to separate our batch into 2 parts. A small part (<25% of the entire batch) that we will color pink and act as the "skin", and the larger part (>75%) that will be white and contain exfoliating seeds!

You'll want the "skin" part of your batch to be no more than 25% of the entire batch. This will be the layer we pour first. The trick is letting the base get hard enough to allow you to pour the rest of the batch on top. Adding fragrance to the smaller "skin" part will help the soap solidify faster.

Let's talk about the color for the "skin" layer. Micas are generally added at the rate of 1-2 teaspoons per pound of soap. Since 25% of 3 lbs is 12 ounces, we recommend using no more than 2 teapsoons for the smaller layer. Note, this only applies to cold processed soap. If you are using melt and pour soap base, a liquid colorant would be better. With liquid colorant, simply add a few drops and mix. Add more if needed. Micas don't mix very well in the glycerin soap bases from our experience, but do whatever works best for you!

Now let's talk about the main layer that will contain our seeds. There will be no color in this batch. If you're using oils that turn the finished soap a little tan, you can try zinc oxide to lighten up the batch. The key is here is waiting until the "skin" layer has setup. It needs to be solid enough for you to pour the main batch onto. One trick that will help is hold off on putting fragrance into the main batch. Wait until the base sets up BEFORE adding fragrance to the white top layer. Fragrance helps soap reach trace faster, by not adding fragrance until the end you're just giving yourself as much time as possible before having to pour that last layer.

The basic flow goes something like this.

• Add lye to water and mix - let sit for 15 mins
• In a separate pot combine and melt all oils
• By the time the oils are melted the lye should be cool enough to use
• Add lye solution to the oils and mix well
• Separate mixture into your containers for color
• Add and mix color into each batch
• Add fragrance to base layer and pour
• Wait for layer to harden a bit (5 mins)
• Add fragrance and seeds to top layer, mix and pour
• Cover mold with plastic and something to keep heat in (old towel or blanket)
• Let sit over night

You should be able to remove and cut your batch within the first 48 hours. Once cut to size, store in a cool place with low humidity for best results. We absolutely love this style of soap and dragon fruit fragrance mixes well with many other fruits.